GLOSSARY OF TERMS

 

SPINNING

Batt

Fauxlag

Fulled

Grist

Long Draw

Licker

Ply

Predrafting

Ratio

Rolag

S-twist

Semi-worsted

Short draw

Singles

Swift

Wraps per inch (wpi)

Z-twist

 

WEAVING

Balanced weave

Beat

Dent

Design

Draft

Draw-in

Ends per inch (epi)

Fell line

Float

Floating selvage

Hand

Header

Heddle

Lift Plan

Pick

Picks per inch (ppi)

Plain weave

Point twill

Reed

Selvage (Selvedge)

Sett

Shaft

Shed

Shuttle

Sley

Tabby

Tartan

Temple

Threading

Thrums

Tie-up

Treadling

Warp

Weft

Winding a Warp










 
 

A carded type of fiber preparation that creates a flat sheet, typically prepared using a drumcarder.

Similar to a rolag but made from a drumcarded batt.

Finishing process that handles the wet yarn more aggressively to begin the felting process.

Measure of yardage and weight; yards per pound or meters per grams.

Method of drafting that produces a woolen yarn.

Small drum that aligns and feeds fiber onto the larger drum of the carder.

The number of strands in a yarn, ex. 2-ply

Thinning the fiber to make it easier to draft (spin).

Speed the bobbin turns for every revolution of the drive wheel. It is expressed as a pair of numbers.

A type of fiber preparation that is handcarded and the fiber is rolled into little tubes.

Yarn spun with the wheel going counterclockwise.

Combination of a woolen preparation (carded) and spun with a short draw (aka worsted) drafting method

Fiber is spun, keeping the twist in front of the fiber in your hand; producing a more compressed and smoother yarn (worsted).

An unplied spun yarn.

Tool that holds a skein of yarn while it is being wound into a ball.

The number of times a yarn can be wrapped consistently within the space of an inch.

Yarn spun with the wheel going clockwise.

 

The same number of weft picks as warp ends per inch.

Placing the weft into position.

A space in the reed through which the warp thread passes. Example “10-dent” means 10 spaces in an inch.

A project’s weave and pattern, color arrangement, dimensions, borders if any, and complete directions.

Weaving instructions that diagram the threading plan, tie-up and treadling. It is the “map” for the weaving.

The pulling in of the selvage while weaving; varies with type of fiber and weave structure.

The number of warp ends (threads) per inch. Also known as sett.

The edge of the fabric where the last weft pick was woven.

A warp or weft yarn that travels over more than one warp end or weft pick. Floats can be intentional element of a structure or an error.

Selvage thread on each side of the warp is threaded directly through the reed without being threaded through a heddle.

How fabric feels, usually after washing and pressing.

Waste yarn woven at the start of a project to spread the warp. Also, the weaving at the beginning and end of the piece.

Polyester (Texsolv) or metal loops suspended on the shafts with a central eye through which a warp thread passes.

Used primarily on table looms; indicates the shafts to be raised for each pick, replacing the tie-up of treadles on a floor loom.

A single pass of the weft through a shed. Also referred to as a shot.

The number of weft picks in an inch of woven fabric.

The simplest weave structure where the each weft travels over and under each warp without skipping any threads.

Threading cycles through the shafts in one direction and then reverses direction, eg., 1-2-3-2-1.

Part of the loom that spaces the warp across the width of the weaving. This spacing determines the density of the woven fabric.

Side edges of the woven cloth.

Spacing of the warp yarns; expressed as ends per inch (epi).

Rods with heddles hung from them. A 4-shaft loom has 4 of these.

The space created when the heddles are lifted or lowered. Each weft pick passes through a shed.

Tool that holds and carries the weft thread through the shed. Many types including: boat, stick, ski, band, etc.

The placing of the warp threads through the dents of the reed.

(see plain weave) The plain weave that comes between the picks of a pattern weave.

A symmetrically crossbarred, multi-colored design of the traditional Scottish textiles. (Harriet Tidball)

(stretcher) Adjustable tool that holds the warp out (side selvages) to its full width.

The order each warp end passes through a heddle on a specific shaft.

The unwoven warp threads left at the beginning and end of weaving.

Diagrams the shaft combinations raised or lowered by each treadle to make the sheds required by the weave structure.

Order treadles are pressed; the order in which each shed is made.

Lengthwise threads on a loom that are held under tension.

Crosswise threads in a weaving.

Measuring the warp to prepare it for the loom.